Horseshoe studs can make a real difference to your horse's confidence and performance, especially when competing on tricky going. But choosing the wrong stud — or using studs incorrectly — can cause serious injury through twists, strains, and increased strain on tendons and ligaments. This stud guide covers everything you need to know, from understanding what studs are and why you'd use them, to choosing the right type for the conditions underfoot.
Table of Contents
What Are Horseshoe Studs?
Horseshoe studs are small, threaded metal fittings that screw into pre-drilled holes in your horse's shoes. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, each designed to provide grip under specific ground conditions — from hard, sun-baked turf to deep, churned-up mud.
For studs to be an option, your horse needs to be shod and your farrier needs to drill stud holes into the shoes. This is a straightforward job that typically costs around R20 to R30 per hole, but it must be done before you can stud up at all.
It's also worth understanding that a small amount of slip when a hoof lands is completely normal. It's how a horse absorbs concussion through the forelimb. Studs stop that natural movement, which pushes more force up the leg. This is why less is always more — the smallest stud that does the job is always the right choice.
Why Use Studs?
Studs are used to give a horse better grip when conditions are slippery or unpredictable. A horse that has slipped before — landing badly after a fence, losing footing on a corner, or skating on wet grass — may become anxious about its footing rather than focusing on the job at hand. Studs restore that confidence.
The conditions where studs are most useful aren't limited to thick mud. One of the trickiest scenarios is firm ground that has had a short summer shower on top of it — the surface becomes greasy while the ground underneath stays solid. In this case, a small amount of extra grip can be the difference between a confident round and a horse that is unsure of itself at every turn.
That said, as showjumper Holly Smith has pointed out, studs are not a substitute for correct riding. They won't fix a balance problem or compensate for poor preparation. They work best as a supplement to good horsemanship, not a replacement for it.
Before You Turn to Studs
If your horse tends to slip on roads or hard surfaces, ask your farrier about tungsten carbide road nails. These are standard horseshoe nails with a tiny tungsten pin in the head that protrudes about 1mm and digs into the surface as the hoof hits the ground. For many horses, this is enough to restore confidence without the need for studs at all.
Road nails should always be fitted in pairs on matching feet — either both fronts, both hinds, or all four — to keep the foot balanced. If tungsten nails aren't sufficient, adding studs is the natural next step.
Building Your Stud Kit
A well-stocked stud kit is essential before you ever arrive at a competition. Scrambling around at the showground with a stone wedged in a stud hole and a horse that won't stand still is not where you want to be. Prepare everything at home.
What to Include in Your Stud Kit
Your kit should contain a variety of stud types and sizes, a tee-tap to clean and reinforce the thread in each stud hole, an adjustable spanner or wrench, stud plugs to keep the holes clean when not in use, a horseshoe nail for picking out debris, and a compartmentalised storage case to keep everything organised.
A magnetic tray or magnetic wristband is also worth having. Studs are small and easy to drop in grass or shavings — a magnetic surface keeps them right where you need them. Max Corcoran, former USEA President and eventing grooms expert, swears by small fishing tackle boxes for their individual compartments, and recommends buying at least five of each stud type because you will inevitably lose one.
Keeping Stud Holes Clean
Stud holes should be plugged at all times when studs are not in use. You can buy ready-made plugs in cotton wool, rubber, or metal, or make your own by wrapping a small piece of cotton wool in petroleum jelly. The goal is to stop dirt, stones, and moisture from clogging the thread.
A good habit is to clean and retap the stud holes the day before a competition, then replug them. This means when you arrive at the show, the holes are ready to go and you're not fighting a packed, dirty thread under pressure.
Types of Studs and When to Use Them
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This is the heart of any stud guide, and it's where riders often feel overwhelmed. The key principle is straightforward: pointed studs penetrate hard ground, while wider, blockier studs grip soft ground. Here is a breakdown of the main types.
Road Studs
Road studs are small, flat studs — typically around 8 to 9mm — with a tiny point. They are extra-hardened for durability and are used on tarmac, firm surfaces, or during general road work. They provide a modest amount of grip without significantly altering the angle of the foot.
Sharp and Grass Tip Studs
Sharp studs have a more pronounced point designed to penetrate firm, dry, or sun-baked ground. Think of them like running spikes for horses. They are typically used in the front shoes, often paired with small conical studs behind. Avoid putting a sharp stud on the inside branch of any shoe — if the horse catches itself, the result can be a nasty wound.
Conical Studs
Conical studs are the most popular all-round option and come in small, medium, and large sizes. A small conical stud (around 16mm) is suitable for good grass going, while a large conical (around 25mm) is designed for greasy conditions and sharper turns. If you're starting out and building your first kit, small and medium conicals are the studs you will reach for most often.
Bullet Studs
Bullet studs are chunky, block-shaped studs designed for good-to-soft conditions where the ground is not too hard or slippery. They sit at around 14mm and can be used in both front and hind shoes on any size of horse. They are a popular choice for polo and for everyday competition use when conditions are average.
Dome Studs
Dome studs are oval-shaped with a pointed dome top, making them a compact choice for soft and muddy going. The larger or "maxi" dome is suited to bigger horses and hind shoes on genuinely soft ground. Their wider profile helps the stud grip without sinking too deep.
Polo Studs
Polo studs are blunt and cubic, designed for sharp turns and fast braking on good going. They come in a range of sizes from around 7mm to 12mm, making them a good option for ponies and smaller horses where a larger stud would be too aggressive.
Arena Studs
Arena studs are large, square-based studs tapering to a sharp point — typically around 20mm — designed for artificial surfaces or muddy conditions. Larger horses that make sharp turns in the arena are the primary candidates for these.
Dressage Studs
Despite the name, dressage studs are useful across disciplines. They are small, conical-profile studs — around 14mm — that work well on firm going and are a good utility stud for any rider who needs a little extra grip without going up in size.
How to Choose the Right Stud for the Conditions
Choosing studs is a combination of reading the ground, knowing your horse, and understanding what you're asking of it that day.
Hard Ground
On firm or dry ground, you need penetration rather than surface area. Choose shorter, sharper studs — road studs, mini sharp studs, or small dressage studs. Avoid large studs on hard ground entirely; they won't sink into the surface and can cause unnatural angles in the hoof that put pressure on the joints and hoof wall. Prolonged use of big studs on firm ground can even cause vertical fractures in the hoof wall.
Soft and Muddy Ground
Soft going calls for studs with a larger surface area — dome, bullet, large conical, or square block studs. These push into the ground and provide traction rather than needing to penetrate a solid surface. A good rule of thumb is the softer the ground, the larger the stud you can use.
Mixed or Typical Conditions
For the classic South African summer scenario — firm soil with a brief afternoon thunderstorm making the surface slick — a hybrid stud works best. The small or medium conical is the standard choice here, as is the sharp stud, which was specifically designed for heavy rain on top of hard ground.
Front vs. Hind: Where to Put Your Studs
Most farriers now recommend using a pair of studs in each shoe — one on the inside branch, one on the outside — to maintain the medial-lateral balance of the foot. Uneven balance increases strain on the leg's structures.
As a general rule, use slightly larger studs behind than in front. The hindquarters are the engine: when a horse turns, it rocks back onto the hind legs, and when it jumps, it pushes off from behind. Those hind feet need more grip. The front feet, on the other hand, need to be able to shift slightly on landing to absorb the concussion of impact. Too large a stud in front removes that natural movement entirely.
Never put larger studs in front than behind — this means the horse cannot get its forelegs out of the way of its hindlegs quickly enough, significantly increasing the risk of overreaching.
On the inside branch of the shoe, always use a blunt stud rather than a pointed one. If the horse clips itself with an inside stud while turning or jumping, a blunt surface causes far less damage than a sharp point.
Stud Size and Horse Size
The impact of a stud is proportional to the size and weight of the horse wearing it. What counts as a medium stud on a 600kg warmblood is a large stud on a 400kg pony. Larger studs are simply not appropriate for ponies or smaller horses.
As a guide, ponies should be limited to road studs, mini sharp studs, small polo studs, and small dressage studs. Larger dome, conical, or square block studs carry a real injury risk on a lighter animal.
Safety Rules Every Rider Should Know
No stud guide would be complete without covering the safety basics. These rules come up consistently across experts and experienced riders.
Always fit protective boots on your horse when using studs. The risk of a stud strike is real, particularly on the inside of the opposite leg. A stud girth or stud guard is also wise if your horse wears studs in the front shoes and is a tidy jumper.
Never travel your horse in studs. The unnatural angle studs create is fine for short-term work, but standing on it for a trailer journey puts unnecessary strain on the leg. It also risks damage to the trailer floor and increases the chance of injury if the horse scrambles.
Remove studs immediately after your round. Leaving them in is the equivalent of keeping high heels on all day — the longer it goes on, the more discomfort builds up.
If you are using studs for the first time, school at home in them before you compete. Your horse needs to adjust to the different feel underfoot, and you need to understand how it changes their movement. A competition is not the place to find out that your horse is unsettled by the new sensation.
After use, clean studs thoroughly, dry them, and store them in a lightly oiled cloth or spray with a rust-inhibiting product. Rust and damaged threads are the quickest way to end up with a stud cross-threaded in a hole — a problem that requires a farrier visit to fix.
Putting It All Together
A good stud guide gives you the knowledge to make smart decisions on the day, but there is no single correct answer for every horse and every situation. The best approach is to start conservatively with smaller studs, pay attention to how your horse moves and responds, and build up your understanding through experience.
Walk the course or schooling area on foot and feel the ground underfoot before you make your selection. Ask experienced riders or your farrier for their read on the conditions. And always remember: the stud that does the job with the least intervention is the right stud to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you put studs on a barefoot horse?
No. Studs screw into threaded holes that a farrier drills into a metal shoe, so a horse must be shod to use them. If your horse is barefoot and you need extra grip, talk to your farrier about hoof boots with studded soles or about shoeing for the competition season.
Do you need studs in all four feet?
Most farriers recommend a pair of studs in each shoe to keep the foot balanced, and many riders stud all four feet. As a rule, use slightly larger studs behind than in front: the hindquarters drive the turn and the jump, while the front feet need a little slip on landing to absorb concussion. Never fit bigger studs in front than behind.
What size stud should I use?
Match the stud to the ground and the horse. Use short, sharp studs such as road or small dressage studs on hard ground for penetration, and larger dome, bullet or block studs on soft, muddy going for surface grip. Always scale down for ponies and lighter horses — a medium stud on a warmblood is a large stud on a 400 kg pony.
Should you travel a horse in studs?
No. Remove studs as soon as your round or session is finished. The unnatural angle is fine for short bursts of work but puts needless strain on the limb if the horse stands on it during a journey, and it can damage the trailer floor. Always plug the empty stud holes for travel.
How do I stop studs seizing in the holes?
Keep the holes plugged whenever studs are not in use, clean and re-tap the thread with a tee-tap the day before a competition, and store studs dry and lightly oiled. Rust and packed dirt are the main causes of a cross-threaded stud, which usually means a farrier visit to put right.
