In equestrian terms, reins are the long straps or lines attached to the bit (or to a headcollar in the case of lungeing) that the rider uses to communicate with the horse through direct contact with the hands. They are one of the primary aids, transmitting signals from the rider’s hands to the horse’s mouth or poll, and are a central component of all ridden control and communication.
Types of Reins
Reins vary considerably in material, construction, and purpose depending on the discipline and intended use.
Plain leather reins are the traditional choice for dressage and showing. They offer a clean aesthetic and soft feel but can be slippery when wet. They require regular cleaning and conditioning to remain supple.
Laced reins have a strip of leather laced through the rein at intervals, creating a more textured surface for grip. Popular for jumping and cross-country, where secure contact in wet or sweaty conditions is important.
Rubber-covered reins provide the most secure grip in all weathers, making them a practical choice for polo, cross-country, and riding in variable British conditions. They are somewhat less elegant in appearance and less common in flat classes and dressage.
Continental (web) reins are made from webbing with leather stops at intervals. Common in jumping and hacking, they offer good grip and durability at a lower price point than quality leather.
Draw reins and side reins are training aids rather than working reins, used to influence head and neck position during schooling or lungeing. They require educated use and should not be used routinely or by inexperienced riders without guidance.
Rein Length and Adjustment
Correctly adjusted reins should give the rider a straight line from elbow to bit when in a normal working contact. Too long and the rider cannot apply a meaningful aid without taking up large amounts of slack first; too short and the horse is held unnaturally and the rider’s arm is forced back from the elbow, creating rigidity through the contact.
Most bridles have buckles at the bit end to adjust rein length, and some reins have multiple adjustment holes. Finding the correct length for a given horse and discipline is a small but important part of achieving good quality contact. Riders who frequently need to significantly adjust their rein length mid-ride should check whether their reins are appropriately sized for the horse.
Contact and the Rein Aids
Contact refers to the steady, elastic connection between the rider’s hand and the horse’s mouth through the rein. Good contact is not a pulling or holding sensation — it should feel like a handshake: consistent, present, and responsive without being rigid. The horse should seek the contact rather than avoid it, stretching forward and down into the rein when allowed.
The rein aids include direct rein (a straightforward left/right signal to turn), indirect rein (rein laid against the neck or used in opposition to create lateral movement), opening rein (the inside rein is moved out to the side to invite the horse to follow), and direct rein of opposition (a rein applied backward and inward to slow or disengage the hindquarters). Understanding how each of these works and when to apply them is central to educated riding.
Caring for Reins
Leather reins should be cleaned and conditioned regularly — after every ride in ideal practice, and at minimum weekly for reins in regular use. Dirty, dried-out reins crack and become brittle, compromising both grip and longevity. A clean, supple leather rein is safer and more communicative than a stiff, cracked one. Rubber and web reins can be wiped clean with a damp cloth; immersing them fully in water is generally not recommended as it can degrade the stitching.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the correct way to hold the reins?
In English riding, the reins are typically held one in each hand, with the rein entering the hand between the little finger and the ring finger, passing through the palm, and exiting under the thumb which rests on top to secure the contact. The wrist should be relaxed and slightly turned inward (thumbs up, not palm flat). In Western riding, the reins are held in one hand in a neck rein position, with the hand held slightly forward and low. Both positions prioritise a soft, elastic feel through the arm to the bit.
How do I stop my reins slipping through my fingers?
Grip is the first instinct but often the wrong answer — tightening the fist creates rigidity through the arm and interferes with the contact quality. Instead, check your rein type: plain leather reins are the most slippery, particularly in wet conditions. Switching to laced or rubber-covered reins solves most slipping problems. Riding gloves with grip-enhancing palm material also help. Beyond equipment, slipping reins are sometimes a symptom of unsteady hands — if the hand is bouncing with the horse’s movement rather than absorbing it, the rein tends to feed through the fingers over time.
Should reins be the same length on both sides?
Yes. Asymmetric rein length is a surprisingly common and easily overlooked problem that creates an uneven contact and can contribute to straightness issues. It often develops over time as one side of the rein wears or stretches slightly differently from the other, or as buckle holes are adjusted unevenly. Check the length of both reins from bit to hand regularly, particularly if a horse is persistently drifting to one side or resisting on one rein.