A clipper blade is the cutting component of an electric horse clipper — the part that actually removes the coat. Understanding clipper blades, their sizes, maintenance, and how to choose the right one for the job makes the difference between a clean, professional clip and an uneven, patchy result. For anyone clipping horses regularly, knowledge of blades is as essential as knowledge of the clipper itself.
How Clipper Blades Work
A clipper blade set consists of two parts: a comb (the lower blade with wider, longer teeth) and a cutter (the upper blade with finer, shorter teeth). The cutter oscillates rapidly back and forth across the comb, shearing the hair caught between the two. The tension between the blades — adjusted by a tension screw or lever on the clipper — determines how close and smooth the cut is.
Blades are sized by the distance between the teeth of the comb. A coarser blade (wider teeth, more space between them) leaves more coat; a finer blade removes the coat more closely. The standard sizing system in the UK uses numbers — though the sizing terminology can vary between American and European standards, with the numbering meaning opposite things. It is always worth checking the manufacturer’s specification for the blade you are using.
Blade Sizes and Their Uses
Common clipper blade sizes used in equine clipping include:
- Coarse/medium blades (A2, A5 equivalent or “Medium”) — leaves approximately 2–3mm of coat. Ideal for full body clips on horses with thick winter coats, or as a “rough through” blade for a first pass on a dense coat.
- Fine blades (“Fine” or equivalent) — leaves approximately 1–1.5mm. Used for a closer finish, particularly on the face, around the saddle patch, and on horses that need a very neat clip for showing.
- Extra fine or surgical blades — used for very close work around the face, muzzle, and ears in show preparation. Not typically needed for standard clipping.
Most everyday clips on horses in regular work use a medium or coarse blade. The choice depends on the horse’s coat thickness, the purpose of the clip, and personal preference for the finish.
Types of Horse Clip Patterns
The choice of blade also relates to the clip pattern being applied. Common clip patterns include:
- Full clip — the entire coat is removed including the legs and face. Used on horses in hard work that sweat heavily. The legs are left without the protection of the winter coat, so warmth management is important.
- Hunter clip — everything clipped except a saddle patch and the legs. The saddle patch protects the back, and the legs retain their natural coat for protection in the field and over country.
- Blanket clip — the neck and belly are clipped, leaving the back and hindquarters covered. Suitable for horses in moderate work.
- Chaser clip — a line is clipped from the stifle up along the belly and neck without removing the coat from the back or hindquarters.
- Trace clip — a lower clip removing the hair from the belly, lower neck, and chest where sweat accumulates most during work.
Blade Maintenance
Clipper blade maintenance is non-negotiable for good results and blade longevity:
- Oil before, during, and after clipping — a few drops of clipper oil on the teeth of the blades every 5–10 minutes of clipping keeps blades cool, lubricated, and cutting efficiently. Hot blades cause discomfort to the horse and dull faster.
- Clean after use — remove hair from between the teeth using a stiff brush before oiling and storing. Hair packed between the teeth accelerates wear.
- Sharpening — blades become dull with use and must be professionally sharpened. Dull blades pull the coat rather than cut it, causing discomfort and a poor finish. Most clipper specialists recommend sharpening after every three to five full body clips, or when the blade starts to feel warm quickly or the cut becomes uneven.
- Tensioning — incorrect tension between comb and cutter causes blades to cut poorly or overheat. Adjust tension according to the manufacturer’s guidance for each blade type.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know when my clipper blades need sharpening?
Common signs include: the blades heat up very quickly during use; the coat looks chewed or uneven rather than cleanly cut; the horse is clearly uncomfortable because the blades are pulling rather than cutting; or you notice lines and tracks that you cannot blend out. When in doubt, send them for sharpening — continuing with blunt blades causes unnecessary discomfort and produces a poor result.
Can I use the same blades for all horses?
You can, provided the blades are appropriate for the coat type. Heavy, thick coats are hard on fine blades — start with a coarser blade for the main pass and switch to a finer blade for finishing if needed. Horses with very fine or sensitive skin may be more comfortable with a slightly coarser blade that does not cut as closely.
My horse moves away from the clippers — is it the blades?
It may be. Blades that are too hot, too blunt, or incorrectly tensioned can cause discomfort, and many horses that appear nervous about clippers are actually reacting to physical irritation rather than the noise or vibration. Check blade temperature (if they are too hot to hold comfortably, they are too hot for the horse), ensure blades are sharp, and use a reputable clipper oil. If the horse remains genuinely anxious, seek advice from a trainer or vet before proceeding — a horse in significant distress during clipping should not be forced through the process without further assessment.