Studding Horses: A Complete Guide to Horse Shoe Studs

Studding horses is one of the most effective ways to improve grip and confidence across varying ground conditions. Whether you are heading into a cross-country course on heavy ground, working a muddy show jumping arena, or competing on a baked summer surface, the right horse shoe studs can be the difference between a secure round and a dangerous slip. This 2026 guide covers everything you need to know about studding horses — types of studs, when to use them, how to stud a shoe step by step, the difference between one and two studs per shoe, stud hole care, the 2026 British Showjumping and British Eventing rules, and the most popular UK and SA stud brands.

What Is Studding Horses?

“Studding” a horse means screwing small metal cleats — studs — into pre-drilled and tapped threaded holes in the heel area of the horseshoe to provide additional grip and prevent the horse slipping on the going. The practice is widespread in UK and SA competitive disciplines including show jumping, cross-country, eventing, polo, hunting and competitive driving, particularly where the ground is wet, slippery, deeply rutted or unusually hard.

Note the linguistic confusion: “studding” can also mean breeding a stallion to a mare, and “stud” can refer to a stud farm. In the context of horseshoes — the meaning of this guide — studs are screw-in grip aids fitted to the back of the shoe.

Types of Horse Shoe Studs

Road Studs (Small/Flat Studs)

Short, broad, blunt studs designed to give minor extra grip on hard surfaces (tarmac, baked ground, hunt ride-outs). Road studs cause minimal disruption to the leg and are the only studs that some riders fit permanently. Typical thread size M10 in the UK, sometimes called “rosehead” road studs.

Grass Studs

Tapered, medium-length studs designed for short summer grass — slightly more grip than road studs but still moderate. Best on good, summer-firm grass.

Bullet Studs (Pointed Studs)

Tapered to a point, designed for soft going (wet grass, muddy show jumping arenas, light cross-country mud). The point bites in and gives strong grip without locking the foot.

Cone and Dome Studs

Cone studs (taller, more pointed) and dome studs (rounded) provide medium grip in mixed conditions. Cone studs are popular for general show jumping work; dome studs are slightly less aggressive.

Cross-Country (XC) Studs

The largest, most aggressive studs — often 20-25 mm tall, tapered to a sharp point. Used on the heavy cross-country going where deep mud or steep banks demand maximum bite. These studs come out the moment the horse is back on the lorry — the leg-loading effect of large studs is significant.

Dressage Studs

Small, low-profile studs used in advanced dressage when the going is wet. Typically a small grass-stud equivalent in size, allowing the horse a confident half-pass or extended trot on slippery turf. Indoor dressage on rubber surfaces never requires studs.

When to Use Studs on Your Horse

Studs should be matched to the going, the discipline, and the demands of the round. General UK guidance:

• Hard summer ground (cross-country, hunt rides): small road studs, low-profile, both shoes
• Wet show jumping arena (UK winter): cone or bullet studs behind only, sometimes both
• Heavy cross-country going (BE100+ in wet conditions): XC studs both behind, sometimes also in front depending on coach guidance
• Light grass-arena dressage: small grass studs behind only
• Polo on grass: cone or bullet studs behind only — front studs are not used in polo because of the close-galloping leg interference risk
• Stable yard, hacking, schooling: studs are removed

A first principle: as small a stud as the going permits. Over-studding (using XC studs when a small bullet would do) loads the leg unnaturally, risks tendon and joint stress, and is more dangerous if the horse gets cast or kicks itself.

How to Stud a Horse’s Shoes: Step-by-Step

Equipment You Will Need

• A stud kit — preferably with separate compartments for different stud sizes
• A T-tap (or tap wrench) for the relevant thread size (UK standard M10)
• A wire stud brush
• A hoof pick
• A stud spanner (often a small box spanner with handle)
• Stud plugs (rubber or cotton wool) for empty holes
• WD-40 or similar penetrating oil for stuck threads
• A range of studs appropriate to the going

The Process

1. Pick out the feet thoroughly with a hoof pick
2. Remove any plugs from the stud holes (rubber or cotton wool plugs are pulled out by hand or with the tap end)
3. Use the wire brush to clean the threads inside the hole
4. Tap the thread out with a T-tap, screwing the tap in and out by hand to clear any compacted dirt
5. Screw the stud in by hand first to feel the thread engage cleanly
6. Tighten with the stud spanner — firm but not over-torqued (you should not be able to wobble it with your finger but you should not need a long handle to drive it home)
7. Repeat for each shoe being studded
8. After the round, immediately use the spanner to remove studs and replace with rubber or cotton wool plugs to keep the threads clean

One Stud or Two Per Shoe?

Most UK competition shoes are drilled with one threaded hole on the outside heel (lateral side) and one on the inside heel (medial side), giving the rider the choice. Common rules of thumb:

• One stud per shoe: outside heel only, for general purposes where moderate grip is needed
• Two studs per shoe (inside and outside): for serious going where balanced grip across the back of the foot is essential
• Asymmetric studding: never put a larger stud on one side than the other — this loads the leg unevenly and is a known cause of soft-tissue injury
• Front studs: less common; usually only fitted on hard summer ground (small road studs) or for heavy XC in deep going. Fitting larger studs in front carries a real risk of the horse “snatching” the foot back during landing and over-flexing the deep digital flexor tendon

Horse and Hound’s competition guide is unambiguous: never stud just the front feet and never use a larger stud behind than in front. The behind shoe carries the propulsion phase; uneven studding has been linked to inside-stud over-rotation injuries.

Stud Hole Maintenance and Care

Plugging Stud Holes

When not in use, stud holes must be plugged to prevent grit, mud and water packing into the threads. Common UK plug options include cotton wool (cheap but rusts threads if wet), rubber plugs (Mark Todd, Premier Equine, Stubbs sell good ones at around £6-£10 per packet of 50), and stud-hole plugs sold by specialist tack shops.

When Holes Become Blocked

If a thread is packed with grit, soak the foot in warm water, then use the T-tap to clear the hole. Stubborn threads can be re-tapped with the T-tap — most farriers will re-tap stud holes during a routine shoeing appointment for no extra charge.

Frequency of Re-Tapping

UK farriers typically re-tap stud holes at each shoeing cycle (every 6-8 weeks). A correctly maintained set of stud holes will last the full life of the shoe.

Risks and Safety Considerations

Concussion and Joint Stress

Larger studs reduce slip but also reduce the natural rotation of the hoof during landing. This loads the joints — particularly the fetlock and pastern — and over-studding has been linked to short-term lameness and longer-term soft-tissue stress. Always use the smallest stud that gives confident footing.

Tendon and Suspensory Strain

A horse moving on heavy studs on a hard surface (e.g. the walk from the lorry to the warm-up arena on tarmac) is at significant risk of suspensory and deep digital flexor strain. Fit studs as close as possible to the warm-up; remove them immediately after the round; never trot a horse on tarmac while studded.

Kicks and Cast Injuries

A studded foot kicking another horse causes significantly more injury than an unstudded one. Studs are not used at hunt meets or in show jumping warm-up rings without good spacing between horses. A horse cast against a stable wall while studded can do serious damage to its own coronet band and pastern.

Loose Studs and Lost Studs

A loose stud rattles in the thread and can come out mid-round — typically with no warning. Check tightness in the collecting ring before each round. A lost stud during a round is not eliminating but warrants a careful walk-out and check before the next class.

Working With Your Farrier

Your farrier is the right first port of call when starting to stud:

1. Ask for shoes with pre-drilled stud holes (most modern UK competition shoes — Mustad LiBero, Kerckhaert Comfort, St Croix Eventer — come pre-drilled or are easily drilled by the farrier)
2. Confirm whether you need one or two holes per shoe based on your discipline
3. Ask the farrier to re-tap holes at each shoeing visit
4. Use M10 threads as standard in the UK and South Africa; mismatching thread sizes between studs and shoes will strip the thread and destroy the shoe

Farrier appointments and shoeing cycles affect studding more than most riders realise — see our guide to horse shoes and shoeing.

UK Stud Brands and Where to Buy

The UK studding market is well-served by specialist tack retailers. Brands consistently recommended by professional show jumpers and event riders in 2026 include:

• Mountain Horse: full range of bullet, road and XC studs; popular with eventers
• Mark Todd Collection: premium stud kits and individual stud sets
• Premier Equine: stud kits, tap sets and rubber plugs
• Stubbs Stud Kit: a long-established UK brand with full assortment kits and individual sets, sold by Equiport, Naylors and Robinsons
• Equigrip: pointed and dome studs for show jumping and eventing
• Roma: budget-friendly stud kits with adequate range for amateur use
• Equi-Tap: dedicated UK supplier of T-taps and stud-hole maintenance kit

Most UK competitors start with a starter stud kit (around £45-£85 in 2026 from Naylors, Robinsons, Derby House, Country Wear or Equiport) containing a tap, wire brush, spanner and an assortment of 10-15 studs covering most conditions, then add specialist XC or dressage studs separately as needs evolve.

South African competitors can buy through Western Shoppe (online), Saddlers Online, Rouse and the Horse Care Co-op outlets in Gauteng, Western Cape and KZN. Imported UK brands carry a price premium of roughly 15-30% over UK direct sales.

2026 British Eventing and BS Studding Rules

British Eventing and British Showjumping permit the use of studs without specific stud-size limits, with the responsibility entirely on the rider/competitor to ensure the studs are appropriate to the going and do not pose a hazard to horse welfare. The FEI rules are aligned. Specific UK and FEI rules to note in 2026:

• Studs must not be used on any rubber, foam or sand-rubber arena surface — many UK indoor centres prohibit studs in their warm-up
• Pony Club UK has long permitted studs and continues to in 2026, with strong guidance that lead rein and first ridden ponies should never be studded
• The British Show Pony Society (BSPS) does not permit studs in ridden showing classes — these are judged on grass and on natural going
• For polo, the Hurlingham Polo Association allows studs behind only; front studs are explicitly prohibited because of the close interference between horses

Frequently Asked Questions

What does studding a horse mean in horseshoes?

It means screwing small metal cleats into pre-drilled threaded holes in the back of a horse’s shoes to increase grip and prevent slipping on wet, slippery, deep or hard ground. The studs are screwed in immediately before competition and removed immediately afterwards.

How much do horse shoe studs cost in the UK?

Individual studs cost around £4-£12 each in 2026. A starter stud kit including a tap, brush, spanner and assortment of studs is typically £45-£85. XC and specialist competition studs sit at the higher end. Replacement plugs are around £6-£10 per pack of 50.

How do I stud my horse for the first time?

Have your farrier confirm your horse’s shoes are drilled and tapped. Buy a starter kit (tap, brush, spanner, assorted studs and plugs). Pick out the feet, brush the holes clean, tap the threads out, screw the stud in by hand and tighten with the spanner. Remove and plug immediately after the round.

Should I use one or two studs per shoe?

Most general show jumping and eventing in moderate UK conditions is done with one stud (outside heel) per back shoe. Two studs per shoe is for serious wet going or BE100+ cross-country. Never use a different size stud on the inside heel than the outside heel.

Are studs bad for the horse?

Used correctly — smallest size for the going, on for the round, off immediately afterwards — studs are a routine and well-tolerated part of competition. Over-studding (large XC studs on hard ground), leaving studs in for long periods, or using mismatched sizes side to side carries real soft-tissue injury risk.

Can I leave studs in between classes?

For consecutive classes on the same day in the same arena and going, it is common to leave studs in. For any prolonged walk on tarmac, transit on the lorry, or any classes more than 90 minutes apart, take the studs out and re-fit before the next round.

Do I need front studs as well as back studs?

For most UK show jumping and lower-level eventing, no — back studs only are standard. Front studs are reserved for the heaviest XC going, advanced BE/FEI cross-country, or competition on extremely hard summer ground where small front road studs are appropriate.