How to Clip Your Horse for the Best Coat

Horse clipping is one of the most practical skills in horse management. As the days shorten and winter coats grow thick, clipping a horse prevents overheating during exercise, speeds up drying time, and makes grooming significantly easier. Whether you are clipping for the first time or looking to refine your technique, this guide covers everything from choosing the right clip type to step-by-step clipping advice, aftercare, and troubleshooting common problems.

Why Clip Your Horse?

Horses grow a thick winter coat to protect themselves from cold weather. While this is perfectly natural for horses living out 24/7, it becomes a problem for horses in regular work. A thick coat causes the horse to sweat excessively during exercise, which leads to:

• Overheating during and after work
• Prolonged drying times — a sweaty, unclipped horse can take hours to dry, increasing the risk of chills
• Skin conditions such as rain scald and mud fever under damp, warm coats
• Difficulty maintaining condition — a horse that sweats heavily loses electrolytes and calories more quickly
• Grooming challenges — thick coats trap dirt, making thorough grooming difficult

Clipping removes all or part of the winter coat, allowing the horse to work comfortably, cool down quickly, and dry faster. The trade-off is that a clipped horse will need appropriate rugging to compensate for the lost insulation.

When to Clip a Horse

In the UK, the clipping season typically runs from October to February. Most owners give the first clip once the winter coat has fully grown in — usually around mid to late October. You may need to clip again 4 to 6 weeks later as the coat grows back.

The general rule is to avoid clipping after the end of January or early February, as clipping too late can interfere with the growth of the summer coat. However, this timing depends on when you plan to compete — some owners of competition horses will clip later if they need a smart, tidy appearance for early spring shows.

Most horses need one to three clips per season, depending on how quickly their coat grows and the type of clip chosen.

Types of Horse Clip

There are several standard clip types, each removing a different amount of coat. The choice depends on the horse’s workload, living arrangements, and how much it sweats.

Bib Clip

Removes hair from the front of the chest and underside of the neck — the areas that sweat most in light work. Ideal for horses in very light work or those living out who need minimal coat removal. Requires little or no extra rugging.

Apron Clip

Similar to the bib clip but extends further down the chest and between the forelegs. Suitable for horses in light to moderate work.

Low Trace Clip

Removes hair from the underside of the neck, chest, belly, and the lower half of the body, leaving the back and top of the body unclipped. Developed from carriage horse practice (the “trace” refers to the harness traces). Good for horses in moderate work that live out part-time.

High Trace Clip

The same as the low trace but the clip line is higher up the body, removing more coat. Suitable for horses in moderate to hard work that are stabled at night.

Blanket Clip

Leaves an area of coat on the back and hindquarters in the shape of a blanket, while the neck, chest, belly, and upper legs are clipped. This provides warmth over the loins and kidneys while removing coat from the areas that sweat most. Suitable for horses in moderate to hard work.

Hunter Clip

Removes all the coat except for a saddle patch and the legs. The saddle patch protects the back from saddle rubs, and the leg hair provides protection from mud, thorns, and cold. The hunter clip is designed for horses in hard, regular work — particularly those that hunt or compete frequently. Requires full rugging.

Full Clip

Removes all body hair, including the legs. Provides maximum cooling but leaves the horse with no natural protection. Used for horses in very hard work or for show horses requiring a sleek appearance. Requires careful rugging management.

Choosing the Right Clip

Match the clip to your horse’s workload and living arrangements:

• Light work (hacking 2-3 times a week): Bib or apron clip
• Moderate work (schooling 4-5 times a week): Low or high trace clip
• Hard work (competing, hunting, daily training): Blanket, hunter, or full clip
• Living out full-time: Bib or low trace clip — avoid removing too much coat if the horse has no stable to retreat to
• Stabled with daily turnout: Any clip type, with appropriate rugging

Equipment You Need

• Clippers: Heavy-duty body clippers for full clips, or quieter, lighter trimmers for smaller areas. Popular UK brands include Lister, Heiniger, and Liveryman
• Spare blades: A full body clip can blunt a set of blades — have a spare pair ready
• Clipper oil: Apply regularly during clipping to keep blades cool and cutting smoothly
• Chalk or marker: For marking clip lines before you start, especially for trace and blanket clips
• Brush: A dandy brush to remove hair as you go
• Extension lead: Ensure it is rated for outdoor use and positioned safely away from the horse’s feet
• Twitch or calming aid: For horses that find clipping stressful (use only if necessary and with care)
• Rug: Have a clean rug ready to put on immediately after clipping

Preparing Your Horse for Clipping

Preparation is key to a good clip. A clean, dry horse clips far more easily than a dirty one:

1. Wash or thoroughly groom the horse the day before clipping. Dirt and grease clog blades and cause uneven lines. If washing in cold weather, use a hot cloth rather than hosing.
2. Ensure the horse is completely dry. Never clip a damp horse — wet hair clogs blades, overheats clippers, and produces a patchy result.
3. Mark your clip lines with chalk or a damp sponge before you start. This is particularly important for trace and blanket clips where symmetry matters.
4. Choose a well-lit, quiet location with a level, non-slip floor. A rubber mat in the stable or a sheltered area of the yard is ideal.
5. Have a helper if possible — someone to hold the horse, lift legs, or calm a nervous animal makes the process much smoother.

How to Clip a Horse: Step by Step

1. Start with the shoulder. This is a large, flat area that is easy to clip and gets the horse used to the sensation before you move to trickier spots. Clip against the direction of hair growth using long, overlapping strokes.
2. Work from front to back. Move from the shoulder to the neck, then the chest, barrel, belly, and hindquarters. Clip in steady, confident strokes — hesitation causes tramlines.
3. Oil the blades every 5-10 minutes. Switch off the clippers, brush away hair, and apply clipper oil. This prevents overheating and keeps the blades cutting cleanly.
4. Check blade temperature regularly. Place the flat of the blade against the back of your hand. If it is too hot to hold comfortably, stop and let it cool or swap to a spare set.
5. Use your free hand to stretch the skin in areas where it wrinkles — the elbow, stifle, and flank. Taut skin clips more evenly and reduces the risk of nicking.
6. Clip the legs last (if doing a full or hunter clip). Use smaller, quieter trimmers for the legs if your horse is sensitive.
7. Brush off loose hair as you go and stand back regularly to check for missed patches and symmetry.

Clipping Tricky Areas

• Head: Many horses dislike having their head clipped due to the vibration and noise. Use quiet trimmers, work slowly, and consider leaving the head unclipped if the horse is very anxious. A twitch may help for horses that tolerate it.
• Ears: Clip the outside only — never remove hair from inside the ears, as this protects against insects and debris.
• Elbows: Ask a helper to hold the foreleg forward to stretch the skin and prevent nicks in the loose skin folds.
• Belly and sheath/udder area: Clip carefully with the horse’s leg held forward. Some horses are ticklish here — work calmly and use steady strokes.
• Under the jaw: Lift the horse’s head to stretch the skin under the jawline for a clean finish.

Aftercare for a Clipped Horse

Once clipped, your horse will need additional management to compensate for the lost coat:

• Rugging: A clipped horse needs rugs to replace the insulation removed by clipping. Use a rug temperature guide to match rug weight to the weather conditions. A fully clipped horse may need a stable rug at night and a turnout rug during the day. Keep rugs clean and waterproof — see our guide to cleaning and reproofing horse rugs.
• Exercise sheets: Use a quarter sheet or exercise rug during warm-up and cool-down to protect the clipped loins and hindquarters.
• Skin care: Clipped skin can become dry and sensitive. A light application of coat conditioner or baby oil after clipping helps soothe the skin.
• Cooling down: A clipped horse cools down after exercise far more quickly, which is one of the main reasons for clipping a horse in hard work in the first place.
• Monitor condition: A clipped horse burns more calories staying warm. Increase forage and adjust hard feed if the horse starts to lose weight. See our horse feeding guide for winter feeding adjustments.

Clipper Maintenance

Well-maintained clippers last longer, cut better, and are more comfortable for the horse:

• Clean after every use. Brush all hair from the blades, air filter, and body of the clippers.
• Oil the blades before and after use, and every 5-10 minutes during clipping.
• Sharpen or replace blades after each clipping season, or sooner if they start to pull or leave tramlines. Most equestrian shops offer a blade sharpening service.
• Check the tension. Blades that are too tight will overheat; blades that are too loose will not cut cleanly.
• Store clippers in their case in a dry place, with blades oiled and the tension released.

Dealing with a Nervous Horse

Some horses find clipping stressful, particularly if they have had a bad experience in the past. Here are some strategies:

• Desensitise gradually. In the weeks before clipping, get the horse used to the sound and vibration of clippers by running them near (but not on) the horse during grooming.
• Use quiet clippers. Battery-powered trimmers are significantly quieter than mains-powered body clippers and can be a good starting point for nervous horses.
• Clip in short sessions. You do not have to clip the entire horse in one go. Clip one side, give the horse a break, and finish the next day if needed.
• Consider sedation. For genuinely dangerous or extremely stressed horses, your vet can administer a mild sedative. This is a welfare decision — a calm, sedated clip is far better for the horse than a prolonged, stressful battle.
• Reward good behaviour. Offer hay or treats during clipping to create positive associations.

How Much Does It Cost to Clip a Horse?

If you don’t own clippers or don’t feel confident clipping yourself, a professional clipper will do the job — and most yards have someone who travels to you. As a rough guide to 2026 UK prices:

• Bib or apron clip: £25–£40
• Trace clip (low or high): £35–£55
• Blanket clip: £40–£60
• Hunter clip: £50–£75
• Full clip: £60–£95

Prices vary by region (expect to pay 25–35% more in and around London), the horse’s temperament, and whether sedation is required. A horse that needs the vet to sedate it will add a vet call-out and drug charge on top. Buying your own clippers (£120–£400 for a decent mains-powered set) usually pays for itself within a season or two if you have one or more horses to clip several times each winter.

Frequently Asked Questions